Alsace wine producer: Rolly-Gassmann

Rolly-Gassmann is a Domaine like noone else. It is located to Rorschwihr, a sleepy village on the northern rim of Haut-Rhin. Rolly-Gassmann offers no wines from Grand Grands Cru terroirs, but from a set of very good Lieux-dits such as Silberberg, Muenchreben and Plaenzerreben. The vineyards are located in Rorschwihr and the neighbouring Rodern and Bergheim and exhibit large geological differences. However, at Rolly-Gassmann it is the varieties rather than the terroirs that are in focus.

Rolly-Gassmann has a unique style. The wines are small masterpieces with very good definition. They all carry the signature of Rolly-Gassmann, a certain shameless, velvety sweetness. The fruit is rich and Rolly-Gassmann manages to balance the fruit with a vibrant acidity to form seductive wines that melt on the palate.

You find Rolly-Gassmann behind massive wooden doors, just by the church and the minute square of the village. Rolly-Gassmann will not let you get away with less than some 20 tasted wines, so spitting is necessary unless you plan on being carried out of the cellar. You will start with a few big Sylvaner, a couple of old-vine Auxerrois, half a dozen Rieslings and an hour later you may have come to a handful of Vendanges tardives.

After the monumental tasting, not only you palate, but your French will also have been stretched to the limit.

Rolly-Gassmann often have some mature wines for sale. Take advantage of this!

In short, Rolly-Gassmann is an outstanding producer that delivers first class wines from every variety in each vintage.

Latest visit: 2005

Facts

Marie-Thérèse and Louis Rolly-Gassmann. 1-2, Place de l´Eglise by the square in Rorschwihr. +33 (0)389 73 63 28
rollygassmann@wanadoo.fr
Riesling Génerique €7
Riesling Pflaenzerreben 1996 €15
Pure varietal, perfectly balanced wines with some sweatness. Welcoming and serious. Do not count on English. Grands Crus: -
Lieux-dits: Haguenau (Keuper marl), Kappelweg (calcareous marl), Moenchreben (clayey marl with some gravel), Oberer Weingarten (clay on Jurassic limestone), Pflaenzerreben (Muschelkalk), Rotleibel (red marl with gravel and loess), Silberberg (Muschelkalk) Stegreben (Conglomerats).

Selected representative wines 2005

2002 Muscat Fresh aroma of grapefruit, apples and crushed grapes. The full taste is silky, with mandarin notes and a hint of bitterness. The aftertaste is pure like a fresh grape with jut a little, little sweetness. Even more attractive than the legendary Muscat Moenchreben. The perfect aperitive. 2001 Riesling Réserve Millesime Fresh, fruit straight-forward aroma of honey and grapefruit. Round, fresh juicy taste with charm rather than sophistication. Long aftertaste with citrus notes. 1996 Riesling Planzerreben Huge and classy aroma reminiscent of the Citroen garage on the corner. Melting, developed and mature taste where a fair amount of sugar is perfectly integrated with fresh fruit. Very, very long aftertaste. 1997 Pinot Gris Rotliebel Vendange tardives Big aroma with dried fruit and classy smoky. Mindblowing, very delicate and elegant sweet taste of apricots, with nuts, citrus and gorgeous acidity.