Alsace wine producer: Cave Vinicole Kientzheim-Kaysersberg

The Alsace wine industry is built on three categories of producers: the family business (often with about 10 hectare), négociants (including Trimbach, Hugel, Beyer and Lorentz), and cooperatives. The latter have evolved in three historic stages, and after World War II the wine producers in the totally devastated Colmar pocket came on their feet by joining forces around a series of newly formed cooperatives. Together, the economically weakened farmers could build up production and market, which for small growers many was - and still is - impossible. Today, the three large cooperatives in Eguisheim (brand Wolfberger), Bennwihr/Westhalten (brand Bestheim) and Ribeauvillé (brand Martin Zhan) account for 30% of the regions' volume. Other important and very good cooperatives are Pfaffenheim, Turkheim, Kientzheim-Kaysersberg and Hunawihr.

You should absolutely not despise cooperatives. Although they will never ever reach the highest heights they bring together substantial skill and, not least, excellent terroirs.

Cave Vinicole Kientzheim-Kaysersberg is made up of 130 landowners in the villages Ammerschwihr, Kientzheim, Kaysersberg and Sigolsheim (which also has a local co-operative). In practice, however, 20 families with a total of 170 hectares deliver the major part of the grapes to the CV Kientzheim-Kaysersberg.

The wines sold under the brand Anne Boecklin. In the 16 the century, Anne Boecklin was married to Baron de Schwendi who, among other things, is said to have brought the grape Pinot Gris, until 2006 known as Tokay d'Alsace, from Hungary to Alsace. Their marriage apparently includes a division of roles, where he fought while she took care of the important matters, including the considerable vineyards of the estate.

A tasting at the CV Kientzheim-Kaysersberg provides an opportunity to explore the differences between the four Grands Crus it offers. Here is the exciting Kaefferkopf, the fruity and mineral Schlossberg (se picture below), the magnificent Furstentum and the often caramelized Mambourg. In addition, the wines at lower levels offer many nice surprises, not least in terms of prices. Riesling from Schlossberg (see picture below) and Pinot Gris from Furstentum, are however, sure bets, as for almost all producers.

So, the next time you are in Alsace - visit Cave Vinicole Kientzheim-Kaysersberg. But leave all your prejudices at home, and enjoy all the fine products that are offered.

Last visit: 2011.

Kientzheim-Kaysersberg

Facts

Key person
Philippe Schwartz (President)
Address
Rue des Vieux Moulins, Kientzheim
Contact
+33 (0)389 47 13 19
contact@cave-kaysersberg.com
Price Range (2011)
Riesling Réserve €6
Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg €11
Style
Well-made wines with correct character.
Reception
Professional and relaxed.
Terroirs
Grand crus: Furstentum, Kaefferkopf, Mambourg, Schlossberg
Lieux-dits: Altenbourg, Patergarten


Ginglinger

Representative wines 2011

Hidden Treasure
2008 Sylvaner Réserve Expressive, forceful, spicy aroma with some earthy notes. Rich flavor with a good mid-palate, solid but not aggressive acidity and a hint of bitterness in the aftertaste. A good representative of an underrated grape.
Everyday Riesling
2008 Riesling Réserve Mineral, restrained but classic grape aroma with nice citrus notes. Well built, with a hard palate with layers of fine fruit and a nice sandy touch on the finish.
Top Range Riesling
2008 Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Yet closed, but very elegant aroma with a little honey, flowers and exotic fruits. Remarkably dry, mineral taste with delicate and elegant fruit. A classic, gastronomic wine with great qualities and excellent storage potential!
Most Exciting Wine
2009 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Furstentum Undeveloped aroma with fine character of sweet fruit and just a touch of rose water. Very fresh, clean and pleasing, fruity taste with nice acidity, hardly any bitterness and a hard core of minerality. This wine has great potential and will be excellent with some years of storage.