In Alsace, there is a number of environmentally oriented producers who push the limits for what is technically possible. On of these is Audrey and Christian Binner in Ammerschwihr.
These producers grow their grapes organically, but in addition they strive to vinify as naturally as possible with a minimum of sulphur addition, preferable not even at bottling. To manage, one has to make a wine that is as biochemically stable as possible. At Binners, this is accomplished by fermenting as much as sugar as possible, allowing malo-lactic transformation and storing and bottling the wine under reducing conditions keeping some carbon dioxid in the wine at all stages.
Binner also offers two bootlings of some wines, one filtered and the other non-filtered. My impression is that the non-filtered wines of Binner are a trace more complex both on th enose and on the palate.
The result is aromatic and dry wines with a lot of personality and somewhat unpredictable character. While the big export houses make wines that are similar year after year, vintages after vintage, Binner offer a range with large variations in tastes and aromas. Although these wines may be wonderful, this is not what the authorities look for.
However, one must understand that the role of the authorities is to ensure that the consumers get what they expect, based on a perception of what is the tradition in the region. Hence, INAO has no development perspective at all, and maybe the tendency of INAO to confine the creativity of progressive producers is understandable in some sense.
Binner cultivates 7 ha, mainly on Grand Cru Kaefferkopf, a terroir that in some areas have a colluvial granitic top soil over a marly bedrock. If you want to experience what a young and daring alsacian generation is up to, do not hesitate to explore Domaine Binner in Ammerschwihr. Binner has more than 60 wines on his card, and this enthusiastic producer will keep your palate busy!