Alsace wine producer: Barmès Buecher, Wettolsheim

Barmès Buecher deserves to serve as a symbol for the modern and progressive Alsace.

Barmès Buecher is a relatively large domaine with 16,37 biodynamic hectares, spread over 4 communes; Wettolsheim, Wintzenheim, Turckheim och Eguisheim. Some 2 hectares is on prime Grand Cru terroir. However, the volume is more moderate due to low yields. As an illustration, the Pinot Blanc Rosenberg (made partly from Pinot Beurot!) is made at a rediculously low 43 hl/ha, slightly more than 50% of legal yield. But then, the power, concentration and complexity are is outstanding.

The domaine Barmès Buecher was founded as late as in 1985 and is run by Geneviève and François Barmès. Biodynamic since 1998, the team carefully exploits the potential of the terroirs and expresses the unique feature of each plot in a sensitive and skilful manner. One example is the Pinot Gris from Rosenberg that has been separated into one cuvée from a calcareous soil ('Calcarius') and another one from the granitic parts ('Silicis').

Barmès Buecher also offers a Crémant that has spent an extended periods 'sur lattes' and where the date of the degorgement is indicated on the label. But more exciting is the strategy employed for the vinification. In Champagne, sugar is added at three steps; the chaptalisering, the addition of sweet 'liqueur de tirage' and finally in the 'dosage'. But François Barmès works it the other way around; he harvests at 13% potential alcohol but stops the fermentation at around 11.7% alcohol and 22 grams/liter residual sugar. Thereafter, the second fermentation (on bottle) is started using the natural fructose, leaving enough sugar to cover up for the dosage. Brilliant!

For me, there is no doubt that Barmès Buecher, based on the overall quality, deserves a place on any Top-10 list of Alsace producers. If the price is taken into the account, even fewer could match!

But if one, in addition, considers the reception, the joy, the pride and the respect shown to visitors, then there is no doubt that if you have not learned to know Barmès Buecher you have not learned to know Alsace of the 21st century.

Latest visit: 2008.

Facts

Geneviève (Buecher) and François Barmès 30, rue Sainte Gertrude, Wettolsheim +33 (0)389 80 62 92
barmesbuecher@terre-vin.fr
Riesling Herrenweg 10.50
Riesling Grand Cru Hengst €22.80. Very firm, aromatatic and focused wines of highest quality. Inviting and fun, yet serious. English spoken. Grands Crus: Hengst, Pfersigberg, Steingrubler
Lieux-dits: Clos Sand, Herrenweg, Leimenthal, Pfleck, Rosenberg

Representative wines 2008

2002 Pinot Gris Silicis Fat, dense, exotic aroma of honey (without a trace of mushrooms). Medium bodied, elegant taste dominated by minerality, fruit and crisp acids and a very long aftertaste. 2005 Riesling Herrenweg Very elegant, lemony, not fully developed aroma. Classic, very dry first taste that develops into fruit with oranges and a trace of bitterness on the finish. 2004 Riesling Grand Cru Steingrubler The very fresh nose is dominated by intense honey notes, white flowers. The taste is huge, driven by fruit but with a profoundly complex structure and supreme minerality. A young wine with immense potential. 2002 Pinot Noir Veilles Vignes The nose is a dream with fruity, peppery aroma with black cherries and vanilla from new barriques. Round, firm and balanced, medium bodied taste with dark plum, cherries and silky tannins. My gosh – what a wine!