Wines of the Week

Pinot Gris 2005, André Rohrer

Mittelbergheim is not only one of the 100 most beautiful villages in France, the calm streets are lined with ancient buildings and young winemakers with ambitions. André Rohrer makes dry but firm wines that are certified according to INAO's Agriculture Biologique. Pinot Gris 2005 is golden with apricots, pineapple and nuts on the nose. The taste has a fresh attack, is full on mid-palate and offers a clean finish. Dry enough, despite 10 grams/liter of residual sugar. Price: € 5.50

Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl 2006, Zind-Humbrecht.

Olivier Humbrecht is one of the globally most important and renowned winemakers, and he stretches his art to the limit. While other serious producers press for 4 hours, clarify the must during 48 hours and avoid malo-lactic transformation, Humbrecht presses for 18 hours, limits clarification to 4 hours and allows all wines to pass malo-lactic. 2006 Pinot Gris from the tiny Clos Windsbuhl, overlooking Hunawihr, is so pure, so focused, so elegant and so complete that no words can do it justice. Price: € 45.

Pinot Gris Cuvée Précieuse 2002, Pierre Frick.

Some 25 years ago, Jean-Pierre Frick in Pfaffenheim pioneered biodynamic viticulture in Alsace. And Frick continues to challenge, eliminating sulfur in the vinification process and using beer bottle caps for all his wine. Pinot Gris Cuvée Précieuse 2002 has a golden tint and a complex aroma of almonds, smoke and orange jam. The taste is full and fucused with character and personality, and an acidity that carries 16 gram/liter residual sugar without effort. Price: € 9.50

Riesling Grand Cru Osterberg 2004, Joggerst.

Osterberg yields powerful, multi-dimensional wines with an abundance of the minerality so characteristic for Ribeauvillé. Riesling Grand Cru Osterberg 2004 from Joggerst has a yet restrained nose with smoke and loads of fruit. The taste has good attack, surprising power, perfect balance and a long, clean aftertaste with yummy, almost sandy minerality. Deserves its gold medal from Riesling du Monde 2006. Price: € 12,40

Muscat Grand Cru Marckrain 2004, Barth René.

Marckrain is a misunderstood Grand Cru with obvious potential, currently demonstrated by brilliant producers such as Michel Fonné (René Barth), Fabien Stirn och Laurenth Barth. Muscat Grand Cru Marckrain 2004 from Barth René has a forward nos with dominated by peaches, som banana, mint and grapes. The taste is supple, fresh och complex with fabulous minerality. A perfect wine to go with asparagous and sauce Hollandaise. Price: € 10.

Riesling Jubilee 2001, Hugel.

Hugel is the most influential producer in Alsace and their top Riesling is the benchmark. Riesling Jubilee Hugel 2001 origins from Grand Cru Schoenenbourg in Riquewihr, a legendary vineyard on gypsum and marl. The nose is developed oozing with honey, some lemon but also pineapple and peach. The taste is mature, more than medium bodied, rich and harmoniuous with grape, some minerality and velvety acidity. Price: € 21.

Riesling Grand Cru Moenchberg 2002, Guy Wach.

Within the boundaries of the hidden village Andlau one finds three superior Grands Crus with diverse characteristcs; Kastelberg (shist), Wiebelsberg (sandstone) and the illusive Moenchberg (lime topsoil on granite). While famous for its' amazing Pinot Gris, the geology of Muenchbergs yields Rieslings that combine fruitiness with focus. Riesling Grand Cru Moenchberg 2002 from Guy Wach offers kiwi, papaya and citrus, and a succulent taste with some minerality and a lovely bitterish attack. The taste is even more complex than the aroma. Price: €10.85

Riesling Grand Cru Goldert 2005, Ginglinger-Fix.

Goldert may be the most well protected of all the Grands Crus of Alsace and is famed for perennial success of Muscat and Gewurztraminer. Grown on calcareous soil overlooking the Rhine, this Riesling Grand Cru Goldert 2005 is beautifully crafted by Eliane Ginglinger in Voegtlinshoffen. The promising nose is tempting with candied lemon, mature exotic fruits and a hint of honey. The taste is full but focused, daring but dry, fresh with a trace of grapefruity bitterness, characteristic minerals and seducive fruit. Pure quality. Price: € 9.80.

Muscat d'Alsace 2004, Frédéric Engel.

Muscat from Alsace is the ideal companion of the first asparagous soup of the season. With its' bitterish character, typical for Riquewihr, it disarms the umami-flavours of the beloved primeur. Muscat d'Alsace 2004 from Frédéric Engel has, at 4 years of age, attained a level of maturity where a youthful charm has been replaced by character and complexity. The taste is try, yet quite full, offering oranges, liquorice and mint. A solid wine that conveys the charm and joy of an entire region. Price: €6.

Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim 1995, Gustave Lorentz.

In their youth, the wines from Altenberg de Bergheim are firm and fresh with a distinct scent of oranges. With time they fill out and gain richness, body and splendid charm. Riesling Altenberg de Bergheim 1995 (still for sale at the domaine) from Gustave Lorentz offers citrus and diesel on the nose but especially vanilla, passion fruit, cinnamon and cloves. The taste is seducive and silky but still zesty and juicy with admireable acidity. Sigh... Price: €30.

Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf 2004, Audrey & Christian Binner.

Binner in Ammerschwihr makes dry, biodynamic wines. Gewurztraminer Kaefferkopf 2004 from Audrey & Christian Binner spent 11 months "sur lie" before it was bottled without filtering. The nose is very fruity with kiwi, aprocots and pinappe, the taste offers anise and fruit cocktail. Price: €12.

Muscat 2004, Jean-Marc Bernhard.

Alsace Muscat is fresh but fruity, dry but supple. It feels natural all the way, and matches salads and veggie dishes perfectly. The 2004 Muscat from Jean-Marc Bernahard in Katzenthal has melon and almonds on the nose, while the tast adds spices such ginger, anis, cloves and a hint of bitterness. Price: €7.

2000 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kanzlerberg, Sylvie Spielmann

Sylvie Spielmann owns half of the smallest Grand Cru of Alsace. This terroir gives firm wines that need very long to develop and show their full potential. Spielmann is a of master of Gewurztraminer, and in addition to Kanzlerberg and Altenberg de Bergheim she offers a splendid lieu-dit Blosenberg. The 2000 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kanzlerberg has a complex aroma of vanilla, raspberry, liquorice, violet and the spearmint typical of the terroir. The velvety taste offers perfect balance beteen fruit, integrated sweetness and superb acidity. Price: ca €15,00.

2004 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Rosacker, Mader

Rosacker may be best known for its' Riesling but the heavy clay also gives birth to outstanding Gewurztraminer. The 2004 Gewurztraminer Rosacker from Jean-Luc Mader offers aromas of jasmine, banana, honey, citrus and spices. The taste is firm, typical for the house, medium bodied and still a bit sweet. The aftertaste is complex with a stiff minerality that is the hallmark of this great terroir. Price: ca €11.00.

2005 Riesling St Grégoire, Edgar Schaller

Patrick Schaller, educated in Champagne, has a reputation for first class crémant but does also offer a complex Muscat, uncompromising Riesling Grand Cru Mandelberg and a smokey Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Sporen, true to the terroir. The 2005 Riesling St Grégoire is typical for the house style; firm, focused and fruity. The nose offers yellow apples and the taste is long and creamy. Price: ca €10.00

Crémant d´Alsace, Clément Klur

Crémant is an underrated wine at the table. Made according to métode Champenoise, but employing less chaptalization and other tricks, it is perfect match for white meats and fish. Crémant d´Alsace from Clément Klur offers almonds, vanilla and oranges on the nose. The taste is medium-light bodied and dry with pure, silky acids and a slight bitterness that adds character. Price: €8.50.

2006 Gewurztraminer, Mittnacht Fréres

The vintage 2006 was very diffucult as rot started to spread due to a rainy August and warm rains in September. However, due to the thick skin Gewurztraminer did very well. 2006 Gewurztraminer from Mittnacht Fréres in Hunawihr, run by Marc and Christophe is made according to biodynamic principles. The aroma offers a hint of banana, cardemoms, fresh ginger and roses. The taste is more than medium-bodied, deep, clean without any bitterness and perfectly balanced. Price: €9.65.

2002 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Sonnenglanz, Domaine Stirn

It takes a winemaker with the skill and dedication of Fabien Stirn to make a Gewurztraminer that expresses the terroir as much as the grape variety. 2002 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Sonnenglanz has a complex nose with roses, white , flower and maturation. On the palate, the first impression says "Sauternes", with some botrytis, honey, some sweetness and razorsharp acidity. Then, a superb and stunning minerality develops. The taste lasts for minutes. A World Class wine. Ex cellar price: €10.

2005 Pinot Blanc, Gérard Schueller, Husseren-les-Chateaux

Gérard Schueller is now managed by Bruno Scheuller. As other producers that work according to biodynamic principles, Bruno Schueller makes wines that possess a lot of character and variability. The 2005 Pinot Blanc, a 100% Auxerrois, shows an exciting aroma of nuts, honey and molasses, reminding of a sweet Chenin Blanc from Loire. The taste is nutty, fresh, full and bone dry. A superb gastronomic wine. Ex cellar price: €6.

2005 Muscat Marnes Vertes, Etienne Loew, Westhoffen

Spring time is asparagus time. June allows us to indulge a creamy asparagus soup, Risotto milanese with tender bud of green asparagus, and the hedonistic marriage of asparagus and a sauce hollandaise, charged with fine strips of lemon peel. The 2005 Muscat Marnes Vertes from the dynamic Etienne Loew is almost white. One the nose, you will find the fingerprint grapy aroma, passion fruit and a hint of mint. The taste bears has astringency typical of marly terroirs. Heaven can wait! Ex cellar price: € 7.50.