Riesling is the great pride of Alsace. It is the most widely grown variety, and certainly the grape responsible for the world class reputation of Alsace wines.
Riesling has spread to wine growing regions all over the globe. It is believed to have its origin on the banks of the Rhine river where vine plants still can be found as a part of the local flora. Hence, it is called Rhine Riesling in many countries, and Johannisberger Riesling in California. It should not be confused with Welsh Riesling, an inferior grape common in eastern Europe.
German Riesling seldom attains the power, body and maturity of the acidity as in Alsace. Possibly, the up-and-coming Austrian Rieslings, as well as examples such as Tim Adams of New Zeeland will come closer to the Alsatian style.
Riesling is hardy, it flowers late and matures patiently in the autumn. The ability to mature slowly is one of the reasons why Riesling can become so remarkably complex, just as Scandinavian apples are unrivalled.
In short, Riesling is the worls´s best grape for white wines.
One idiosyncrasy of Riesling is that responds to the terroir very well. That goes for the geology as well as the microclimate. Hence, the prime responsibility of the winegrower and producer express the inherent qualities of the terroir and the grape, not to manipulate them. No oak is needed.
The geological variability of Alsace is one reason why Alsace Riesling appears in so many styles.
Certainly any terroir, for example a given Grand Cru, will turn out differently in the hands of different growers. However, for a given grower Rieslings from a set of Grand Crus will always be related to each other in a certain pattern. For example a Sommerberg from a certain cellar will always be more restrained and less floral than a Brand, and Gloeckelberg will always be more opulent than the same growers Altenberg.
Lesser vineyards may give better Pinot Gris or Gewurztraminer than those from a reputed Grand Cru. But the Grand Cru Rieslings of a certain grower will always stand out has his/her best cuvée.
Sample some 100 Rieslings and all will be different! Everyone will be unique in terms of aromatic composition, sweetness, style of acidity and length of taste.
The most common aromas in Alsace Riesling are apple, citrus, honey, fennel and petroleum. In terms of citrus, I would argue that lemon and lime are typical for limestone soils while grapefruit is a marker for marl. Candied lemon is common in wines from granite where the maturity process is faster (e.g. Grand Cru Schlossberg). Exotic aromas may show up on hot terroirs, such as Grand Cru Eichberg. In northern Alsace, it is common to find a cassis aromas. The apple aromas disappear with cellaring, while the petroleum appears after 4-5 years in the bottle.
Within the limits set by nature, the producers will decide on the levels of residual sugar, R.S. (Fr. Sucre résiduel, S.R). I Riesling is experiences as fylly dry of the R.S. levels are 4 gram/liter or below, and 10 gram/liter and can disappear totally if the acidity and concentration are adequate. Beyond 10 gram/liter, one can normally detect the sugar.
There has certainly been a trend towards higher R.S., partly under influence of the general trend of harvesting grapes at full maturity or beyond.
I would, however, argue that the increased must weight to a large extent is a natural consequence of better grape growing practices and more careful selection. In addition, current vinification techniques allow the wine maker to handle must with a high potential alcohol, still achieving perfect balance and stability in the final product. Producers that excel in this respect include Zind-Humbrecht, Schoffit and Domaine Weinbach.
Traditionalists such as Trimbach and Beyer keep R.S. levels at a minimum to create totally dry, almost austere "gastronomic"e; wines. Although the wines are brilliant, I personally feel that many Rieslings with 10 g/liter R.S. go perfectly with foot proided that they are in balance.
The acidity can be hard or soft, depending on terroir and level of maturity at harvest. In addition, some producers practice malo-lactic fermentation to transform the rough malic acid to softer lactic acid.
Top-notch food exhibit a certain balance of acidity, sweetness and salinity. Because Riesling always has a good acidity but varying fruit, it will interact strongly with many dishes.
Dry Riesling will provide acidity to fish dishes with creamy sauce. Here, the wine backs the dish and prevents it from being bland. This is also true for the amazing combination Riesling and Tarte à l´oignon, a sweet dish that can boost a medium bodied Riesling.
If vinegar may kill a Riesling, products that have undergone lactic fermentation go perfectly with the wine. The most thrilling combination is Riesling and Choucroute. The gently acidity of the cabbage, the sweetness of the potatoes and the acidic saltiness of the meet is mindblowing.
It is easy to compose interesting wine tastings based on Alsace Riesling . Themes may be:
Great Riesling is produced all over Alsace. Unfortunately, but understandable, most focus is on producers between Bergheim and Eguisheim. Great Riesling are made south of the likes of Agathe Bursin (Westhalten), Valentin Zusslin (Orschwihr), Seppi Landmann (Soulzmatt), Schlumberger (Geubwiller), Dirler-Cadé (Bergholtz) and Pierre Frick (Pfaffenheim). In the north, outstanding wines are made by René Koch, (Nothalten), Guy Wach, Kreydenweiss and Gresser (Andlau), Rietch (Mittelbergheim), Stoeffler (Barr), Mochel (Molsheim), Schmitt (Bergbieten), Heckmann (Dahlenheim) and Etienne Loew (Westhoffen).
Must weight g/liter |
Potential alcohol % |
|
AOC Alsace | 144 | 8.5% |
AOC Alsace Grand Cru |
185 |
11% |
Vendanges tardives | 236 | 14% |
Sélections de grains nobles |
276 |
16.4% |