Gewurztraminer of Alsace

A cosmopolitian variety

Gewurztraminer is grown all over the world. The origin of the grape is assumed to be the little village Tramin in Italian Tyrol. Gewurztraminer is, according to Jancis Robinson, identical with the Traminer that is grown world-wide. The prefix Gewurz, which obviously means "spicy" is also seen in Trentino, spelled the German way Gewürztraminer.

The variety has always been popular in cold regions where the climate does not guarantee high must weight, body and power. Quite exciting interpretations are also made in California. I can still remember a stunning Jekel Gewurztraminer from Monterey County. In Sonoma, the style is often close to Vendanges tardives.

The regional flower of Alsace

There is, however, no region where Gewurztraminer enjoys such status as in Alsace. The area of Gewurztraminer is close to the values of Riesling and Pinot Blanc/Auxerrois. In addition, the variety defends its position, there is no sign of lack of interest in the grape. This is surprising in times when taste and character appears to be annoying for consumers who seek out trivial Bag-in-Box plonk.

A genuine Gewurztraminer stirs up emotions. The anything but restrained nose and the powerful, sometimes bitter taste make Gewurztraminer a personality you love or hate. However, for many lovers of Alsace wines, the first glass of Gewurztraminer was the arrow of love that caused a life-long love affair.

The nose of a Gewurztraminer should be complex. Common components are fruits (citrus, banana, litchee, pineapple, star anis) and coconut, honey, spicyness and roses. I associate the nose with the perfumed scent of the Gertrud Jekyll English rose. Some terroirs, such as Grand Cru Sporen, also give a slight smokeyness.

The taste is in harmony with the aroma. The young wine often possesses some bitterness but this tends to disappear upon cellaring. A good Gewurztraminer is recognized on its lack of stickyness.

A heavywight champion

No other variety in Alsace reaches such a dangerous combination of high must weight and low acididy as Gewurztraminer. The ratio sugar/acid is often close to 3, which is the double in comparison with Riesling. There is thus a huge risk that a Gewurztraminer will turn out flat, with a lack of structure but a surplus of sugar. Fortunately there are many producers how master this delicate problem.

Gewurztraminer is often harvested before Riesling, but after Muscat.

Gewurztraminer has a slower maturation process than Pinot Gris. Typically, harvest for generic wines is at 13.5% potential alcohol which gives a wine with 13% alcohol and 8 g/liter of residual sugar. Malo-lactic fermentation is not to think of.

Influence of terroir

The terroir is critical to Gewurztraminer, not because of fingerprint aroma and taste (such as is the case for Riesling) but because of balance.

As with Riesling, the most complex Gewurztraminer are grown on cold, calcareous soils with an exceptional microclimate. Some examples are Hengst (Winzenheim), Altenberg de Bergheim, Rosacker (Hunawihr) and Pfersigberg (Eguisheim). Exotic Gewurztraminer are grown on Rangen (Thann), Sporen (Riquewihr) and Eichberg (Eguisheim). I find a fruity style off Kaefferkopf (Ammerschwihr), Zinnkoepflé (Westhalten), Altenberg de Bergbieten and Hatchbourg (Voegtlinshoffen) while the crisp type comes from marly terroirs such as Sonnenglanz (Beblenheim) and Mandelberg (Mittelwihr).

Three observations:

• While the growers of great Riesling carefully mapped by the wine press, you may find glorious Gewurztraminer where you least expect it, sometimes at a very low cost.
• If you buy Grand Crus Gewurztraminer, look for the lesser years. The vintages great for Riesling give to "big&" Gewurztraminer. Look for the Lieux-dits in great years.
• Growers that make to lean Riesling for your taste will make Gewurztraminer that you love, and those that make too fleshy Gewurztraminer will often be your first choice for Riesling.

Dinner served

Reasonably dry Gewurztraminer is a perfect match for Asian food, especially if it is slightly sweet. Anything with coconut milk just screams for Gewurztraminer!

Wild boar and Gewurztraminer is a local suggestions, but I would rather dig into my 1989 Bordeaux collection.

Fish off the BBQ goes perfectly with Gewurztraminer, as an alternative to a Riesling with 12-20 g/liter S.R.

Munster cheese and Gewurztraminer is a classic, but to me the bitterness of the two can become a bit to much. If you run out of Munster, a mature Pont l´Eveque or a Reblochon are at least as good.

A crisp Flan d´Abricots, topped with roaster flakes of almond and a sweet Gewurztraminer will take you to heaven!

At last

Gewurztraminer can reach celeste quality as Vendanges Tardives and Sélection de grains nobles. In contrast to Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer is not prone to suffer from grey rot but by noble rot (the same organism but different modes of infection). As the infection causes the water to evaporate from inside the grape, not only the sugar but also the acid is concentration, creating wines with exceptional power, freshness and bite.